The Bag of Many Names: The Chanel Classic Flap, or the Classic 11.12

Image by Chanel

Renamed in just the spring of 2021, confusion surrounding what it is called may exist, but there is no mistaking the look of one of Chanel’s most iconic bags. The classic diamond quilting makes up its signature design, as well as the turn-lock closure that takes the shape of the house’s emblematic double Cs. It is a bag that has maintained star status over several decades, appealing to all generations of women who favor a feminine and classic look in a bag.

But this wasn’t always so: The first flap bag (now dubbed the Chanel 2.55) debuted in 1955 from the mind of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself, and though the shoulder strap, which allowed hands-free wear over the shoulder or in the crook of the arm, was a revolutionary feature, it did not yet have the cultural grip it does on us now. 

Karl Lagerfeld’s interpretation of the flap bag as Chanel’s creative director in 1983 was what launched it into global orbit. His version introduced the CC lock closure that became the identifying feature of the bag, along with a leather-woven chain. This is what is known, until today, as the Chanel Classic Flap.

In 2021, however, Chanel renamed the medium size of this bag to the Classic 11.12 from the Classic Flap’s style code, A01112. Now, its many iterations and formats in the medium size bear the official name Classic 11.12 with the same beloved look of the Classic Flap.

A Guide to the Chanel Classic Flap and Classic 11.12: Versions, Materials, and Sizes

The Chanel Classic Flap comes in what is known as the double flap design. This features, as the name suggests, an exterior flap closure and an extra flap that closes off the interior. This secure design is the heritage of the original 2.55 by Coco Chanel and offers more security. In addition to the two flaps, the Classic Flap contains a hidden zipper compartment under the outer flap (which is rumored to be designed for Coco Chanel’s illicit love letters).

Prior to 2014, though, there was another iteration of the Classic Flap: the single flap, which consists of the exterior flap only. Chanel discontinued this version to keep the design consistent with the original double flap of the 2.55, but it is still available on the resale market.

Beyond the flaps, the bag has another visual characteristic that sets it apart. The quilting detail gives this series an inimitable texture that has appealed to bag lovers for decades. The classic diamond-shaped quilt takes its place as the house’s signature, but the newer chevron quilting offers a refreshed look that is equally as coveted.

The Chanel Classic Flap has been released in a range of different materials, but the two most timeless choices are caviar, which earns its name from the grained texture of the calfskin, and the supple, smooth lambskin. The colors are equally as varied, from elegant black and white to more colorful iterations such as in pink and red.

When it comes to sizes, the Chanel Classic Flap has five options:

• Mini: 4.7” x 7.9” x 2.4” (12 x 20 x 6 cm)
• Small: 5.7” x 9.1” x 2.4” (14.5 x 23 x 6 cm)
• 11.12 (Medium): 6.1” x 10” x 2.6” (15.5 x 25.5 x 6.5 cm)
• Large: 7.7” x 11.8” x 3.9” (19.5 x 30 x 10 cm)
• Maxi: 9.1” x 13” x 3.9” (23 x 33 x 10 cm)

Whichever iteration captures your heart, the Chanel Classic Flap bag is one for the ages.