The Elusive, The Exclusive, The Hermès Birkin

Image by Sotheby's

Famously, the Birkin bag was conceived on a flight, in a conversation between its namesake and Hermès’ executive chairman. Jane Birkin told Jean-Louis Dumas of her struggles in finding a bag that accommodated her needs, particularly as a mother. This chance meeting led to the release of the first Birkin in 1984, named after the actress and created with her request for a capacious yet portable bag in mind.

The Birkin has since made a name for itself as one of Hermès’ most prominent pieces, highly sought-after and equally as difficult to procure. Its exclusivity means that its resale market is wide and in popular demand. In fact, it is one of the few bags that maintains a resilient and even profitable value over time. The many variations of the Birkin made since the 80s, including countless limited editions, introduce the iconic bag with different materials, colors, and looks, so there is always another piece to look out for.

What’s a Birkin Bag?

True to its origins, the Birkin is a bag meant for its carrying capacity. It features a rectangular body with an interior side pocket and double rolled handles, comfortably holding a wide range of items, with the larger sizes fitting a laptop with ease. A front flap and central toggle closure, shaped perfectly around the handles, make up its distinct look.

Beyond the signature shape, however, the Birkin has a wide variety of styles. The classic options feature sleek leather, from the most popular Togo leather to the rarer heritage leather that gets better with age. Another popular twist is the Birkin 3-en-1, which is comprised of a canvas clutch and leather tote that interlock to form the Birkin silhouette, offering three dynamic options in a single bag. Some Birkins also make use of more exotic leathers such as lizard, crocodile, alligator, and ostrich. The most expensive Birkin, the Himalayan Birkin, is made of Nilo crocodile, dyed in the image of the famous mountain range, and diamond-studded hardware.

Humbler though no less elegant variations on the bag include the limited editions—some seasonal and others one-off releases—which boast a wide range of colors, materials, and styles. The options are endless, but whichever Birkin captures your heart, another defining quality unites all of them: the trademark Hermès craftsmanship.

Hermès maintains an admirable standard of quality; each of their bags is handmade by artisans, the Birkin included. The time-consuming process, taking up to a full 24 hours, ensures that every Birkin lives up to its name and comes with a personal feel. This artisanship makes the Birkin a sturdy, durable bag that withstands use and time—a worthy investment with a sizable resale value.

Birkin Size Guide

The Birkin comes in many sizes, including limited mini and maxi ones, but the standard line comes in three options. Spotting them is easy; the numbers in the Birkin’s name represent its width in centimeters. The smallest standard Birkin size is the Birkin 25, followed by the Birkin 30 and Birkin 35. Though the larger sizes have enjoyed their popularity, the trend is leaning smaller, with the Birkin 25 and 30 in highest demand due to the versatility in use.

A highly coveted variation is also the micro Birkin 20, produced in limited quantity, featuring the storefront-inspired Faubourg and the exotic lizard and alligator skin models. For the proponents of “bigger is better”, the Birkin 40 was the original size of the bag (Jane Birkin’s was 40 cm wide as well!) and is the ideal size for a travel bag. Lastly, the Shoulder Birkin, designed by Jean Paul Gautier, is two centimeters larger with a shorter length. As the name suggests, it is created to be worn over the shoulder.

Birkin Dimensions

• Birkin 20: 8” x 6” x 4” (20 x 15 x 11 cm)
• Birkin 25: 10” x 8” x 5” (25 x 20 x 13 cm)
• Birkin 30: 11.5” x 9” x 6” (30 x 22 x 16 cm)
• Birkin 35: 14” x 10” x 7” (35 x 25 x 18 cm)
• Birkin 40: 16” x 12” x 8” (40 x 30 x 21 cm)
• Shoulder Birkin: 17” x 8” x 8” (42 x 20 x 21 cm)

The Birkin is certainly a bag with a storied history. With its legendary origins, quality craftsmanship, and many variations, it comes as no surprise that it has come to be one of Hermès’ most well-known. If it is capacity and elegance that you’re looking for in a dream bag, the Birkin might be the one for you.