The Hermès Kelly Over the Years

Image by Sotheby's

Alongside the Birkin, the Kelly bag has made a name for itself as one of Hermès’ most wanted. Less well known, however, is the long history of the bag—its equestrian and even royal origins, which bears some surprising similarity to how the Birkin got its own name.

It begins with the first Hermès bag, the Haut à Courroies (HAC), released in the late nineteenth century. The aspiration of high fashion was not yet established; the bag was a practical invention, intended for equestrian equipment such as the saddle and riding boots. The name translates to “high straps” and refers to the high closure that would become the signature feature of both the Birkin and the Kelly.

The HAC was reimagined into a smaller, daily bag in 1928. Retaining its functionality, the newly named Sac à Dépêches (which translates to “dispatch bag”) was meant for carrying papers and files. The more practical bag, which was characterized by its structured trapezoid silhouette and top handle, was popular among both men and women.

Public appearances with actress Grace Kelly, however, were what put the bag on the international map and gave the bag its iconic name. She had fallen in love with the Sac à Dépêches during the filming of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film, To Catch A Thief. After her marriage with Prince Ranier III of Monaco two years later, the new Princess Grace of Monaco used the Sac à Dépêches to hide her pregnancy from the paparazzi. The pictures of Grace Kelly with the bag caused a surge of popularity among women, who sought out the “Kelly bag”.

In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the Sac à Dépêches to the Kelly as we know it today, and it is no less popular than when the princess of Monaco toted it.

The Kelly Bag Today

The Hermès Kelly remains faithful to the maison’s dedication to craftsmanship: Each one is constructed by hand. A single artisan crafts the handbag from 36 pieces of leather, joined together with an exact 360 saddle stitches. Its elegant design, with strong lines that form a sleek trapezoid body and signature top flap closure, offers an appeal that is universal and timeless.

The Kelly comes in many formats, keeping up with the ebb and flow of trends, and two main styles. The Kelly Sellier is the sharper iteration—straight, structured corners that are the result of its top-stitched seams and resin-coated edges. The rigidity gives the Sellier a distinct, sophisticated look that captured the heart of its namesake.

The Retourne (meaning “reversed”) is a softer alternative that has a more laid-back, slouched appearance. The name comes from the difference in construction; the Kelly Retourne starts out the same as its Sellier sibling, but it is then turned inside out so the signature stitching is along the interior instead for smoother seams. It also features leather piping rather than the Sellier’s resin edges, resulting in a more casual feel and a slightly larger carrying capacity.

The available sizes span from the Kelly Mini at 20 centimeters, Kelly 25, Kelly 28, Kelly 32, all the way to the Kelly 40. The range accommodates every need, from a chic handbag to be worn crossbody to a larger bag for those who like to be prepared for anything while on the go. The Kelly also comes in both Hermès’ classic leathers in their distinct finishes and the more exotic skins like lizard, alligator, crocodile, and ostrich.

Regardless of personal preference, it’s difficult to deny the appeal of the Hermès Kelly’s structured shape, which carries an elegance that has remained in style for centuries. After all, it’s fit for royalty!