A Case for Understated Luxury: The Hermès Picotin

Image by Luxfy

As was the case with Hermès’ classic Kelly, the Picotin honors the house’s roots in the equestrian world. Hermès started out making leather harnesses and saddles for the French nobility—appropriately, the name of this 2002 release literally means “a measure of oats”. The design draws inspiration from the feeder bags that carry oats for horses, with a bucket-like outline and two handles.

The Picotin is one of the more popular Hermès bags, celebrated for its more relaxed feel and affordable price in comparison to the bigger names of the Birkin and Kelly. It is less structured, with a slouched look that highlights the supple single piece of leather that makes up the exterior. A single seam runs along the middle, adding a touch of elegance. The result is a casual yet sophisticated bag that is especially suited for daily wear.

The bag’s everyday appeal is accentuated by its straightforward construction, which features one opening with no interior compartments. The opening is adjusted with a strap that is weighed down with a signature padlock on one end, at least for the current Picotin Lock model (more on this later!). Besides the lock, the only hardware on this bag is the metal buckles across the top that secure the tab as well as four base studs that keep it standing upright.

Picotin Variants, Sizes, and More

Currently, Hermès readily vends the Picotin Lock, named for the padlock that hangs from the closure strap. However, an older design holds the label of the “original Picotin”. Discontinued in 2008, this iteration notably does not feature a padlock and has an even more minimalist look. The original is now only available in the resale market, and the Picotin Lock has subsumed the Picotin name for itself.

The original Picotin. Image by Ginza Xiaoma

What sets the Picotin apart from Hermès’ more popular offerings is the single opening and its unstructured body, which means that it has a large carrying capacity in all sizes. That being said, the Picotin has several sizes to choose from based on your needs. The most popular is the Picotin 18 (PM), with a high buying and selling volume, a perfect and modest size for daily use when you’re not looking to carry much. The Picotin 22 (MM) and 26 (GM) provide more capacity with an equally chic look. Those seeking a bag that will fit everything you can think of needing will thrill at the Picotin 33 (TGM), the largest size of the line. For a small carry-on that fits a phone and small belongings like lipstick, the Picotin Micro will serve well at just 5.5 inches or 14 centimeters across.

Leather artisanship features heavily in the Picotin: The leather is crafted with the Retourne technique, where the bag is turned inside out and then sewn, resulting in soft, rounded edges. The Picotin is available in two of the maison’s classics: Clemence and Epsom leathers. Clemence leather is the softer option, supple to the touch and noticeably heavier. On the Picotin, it gives a more prominent slouch and a matte look. Epsom, on the other hand, is more structured and lightweight leather that is made from embossed calfskin. The pressing of the grain pattern into the leather means that it retains more of its corners over time. 

Held in hand or hanging from the crook of your elbow, the Picotin represents enduring elegance through its minimalist design and relative accessibility. Quickly becoming a classic among Hermès’ bags and gaining more and more variants as well as popularity, it’s hard to deny the candid allure of the Picotin.